Tips for Applying Stage Makeup: Rouge

Rouge is used for emphasis on the face. Powder rouge or blusher is probably best for general use. For female makeups, stick to peachy tones for an unmade-up look or to show up cheekbones; for period fashion, check the color of the time, but be wary of brown tones and bluish shades. Rusty shades work well for men, but use them with discretion. Black skins also benefit from rouge, particularly on stage, as it breaks up the uniform darkness of the skin. Cream rouge, usually called liner, is very useful to create ruddiness, high color, broken veins, tiredness shadows, and as part of the aging process. You can outline lips with rouge. For most general work, rouge is applied in four basic positions:•

Position 1: Unmadeup


1. This application gives a healthy, unmadeup look. Don’t use bright or trendy colors: For very light skins, use soft peachy tones for women and children, and slightly darker ones for men. For brown skins, use one of the excellent deep rusty colors.	2. Powder (dry) rouge, or blusher, is simple to apply and ideal for the stage, but for film and TV, where sheen is appropriate, a cream rouge would be better. Apply it with your fingers. The position is the same for both type: take the color in long triangles down both sides of the face close to the nose. Powder well before applying dry rouge or it will streak.	3. If the rouge is in the right place, it will be on the fatness of the cheeks when smiling. It is not a good idea to smile when it is put on as the rouge will be too far to the sides of the face when relaxed. If the color looks too bright, powder over it, but if you have been really overenthusiastic, use a little foundation to improve matters. If you do this, don’t forget to repowder.

Position 2: Madeup woman		Position 3: Tired

1. This is the standard position for normal female makeup in modern productions and where the first priority is that the woman looks good. It looks “madeup” and shouldn’t be used for natural faces. It is unsuitable for men, except in elegant costume productions like Restoration plays, and should not be used on children; it makes them look precocious.	2. Powder rouge is best for this. Brush the color over the whole cheekbone area, starting from just in front of the ears. Suck in the cheeks to find the right position, but be careful not to get too close to the mouth. Be wary also of color creeping up over the temples, as it narrows the face. For women, vary the color to tone with the costume; men should use a natural tone.	1. This position makes the character look tired. Place the rouge in a v-shape on the center of the cheekbones under the eye sockets, where it emphasizes the pale skin under the eyes, giving the illusion of puffiness. This position is also used for aging.
	Position 4: Chubby

2. When applying rouge in this position, if possible use a small, firm-headed rouge brush, or work with a ball of cotton; you need to be very precise. Choose a natural shade to give a finished effect resembling natural redness. Cream rouge in a brownish-red tone may also be stippled on with a fingertip after the powder to suggest broken veins.	1. Sometimes the face must look heavy or fat. In this case, the rouge should be below the cheekbones, emphasizing the lower part of the face.	2. Apply the color with a big, soft brush in a roundish shape, fading it at the edges with your fingers to avoid a clown-like look. Use a fresh pinkish tone on white skins unless the character is supposed to be tanned. For tanned and darker skins, use a rusty tone.
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